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Listening For Needlework

Help for Yarn Addiction

Seen At The Shop

The Good Book(s)

Monday, March 31, 2008

Speak On it, My Sistahs––The "Speak Out!" Show

In The Eye Of The Calm

Peace_meditations_of_the_third_eye_

(the pupil of "Peace Meditation of the Third Eye", by Robyn Mahone-Lonesome; All pics enlarge.)

A lot of self-help guides advise you to express your feelings to the intended, in the form of a letter, if you can't communicate them verbally. "Speak Out!", the exhibition attended by myself and Mr. K at the
Frank H. Williams Caribbean Cultural Center last weekend, had me thinking about the shows description as a correspondence, giving voice to a group of women––The Harlem Girls Quilting Circle––addressing issues affecting them, me, and whether you know it or not––you too.

I am largely a knitter, but I like to look for the connecting threads between diverse mediums to obtain inspiration. This show had my head spinning. The issues, investigated through the modern manipulation of a trad feminine form––the techniques, color, power, size, and beauty––bum-rushed my brain in a kaleidoscopic convergence.

The result, was a viscerally, sensory experience; your first thought is not the "gee, these are really nice quilts," kind of pleasantness you get from other shows of similar medium. When you enter, and the first quilt you see reflects the past and present state of Harlem, N.Y., now a real estate epicenter, depicted in a marvelously cohesive member-assigned block quilt––it's more like "Wow, what the *&#@?!"

Harlem On Their Minds

Harlem_group_quilt(Harlem 2008, in a nutshell; the HGQC group quilt; machine pieced by Ann Alvarez, machine quilted by Laura R. Gadson)

The messages, while personal to the circle, were certainly not intended for an inaccessible audience; and believe me, the audience came out in force! The issues––injustice, the criminal system, economics, health-care––aren't new, but that's not the point. As the blandness of email makes it easier to delete what you don't want to deal with, the attraction of these quilts, is quite the corollary; like letters written in a sensuous hand, on handmade rice paper with a
Faber-Castel––their beauty renders the subject matter even more compelling to read, no matter how chilling.

My_country_tis_of_greed(My Country, Tis'  of Greed, by Laura R. Gadson. Flag. Cotton with mixed media embellishments; 2008)

But unlike paper correspondence, this is too powerful to be mentally balled up and thrown away as some of the same guides advise, the importance being "closure". No y'all, this is a trad form of expression turned on its head, to express everything from outrage to a mechanism for coping. And true to our sistah selves, the imagery was bold and to the point––but hey, how else are some folks eventually going to "get it?"

Michelle_b_and_robyn_l (You GO, grrls; artists Robyn Mahone-Lonsome and Michelle Bishop, in front of a meditation quilt by Paula Wynter).

"Speak Out!" isn't all about facing confounding issues. As in life, there are ways to cope, and these methods are displayed in works that soothe and heal, through balance and meditation. Paula Wynter's diptych, "Meditation: All The Pain And Suffering In the World", and "Meditation: All The Happiness In The World", is inspired by the practice of Tonglen. Unfinished works, they invite the viewer to add to the sending out of the pain and suffering of themselves and others, and then to send out happiness to us all. "Peace Meditation of the Third Eye" comes with an actual mantra to repeat.

At The End Of The Day, Why You Should Go

Harlem_group_quilt_detail_1(Detail of HGQC's group quilt; transfer, magic marker, applique, machine stitched)

The HGQC is an independent circle of Harlem based sistahs who meet regularly to quilt. Together for a number of years, their works grace many private collections. In order to share their refreshingly modern perspectives with the public, they raise money for, and mount many of their own exhibitions. This group effort enables you to enjoy a stereotype-free experience, lacking censorship from the technique dominated, lulling shawl of passivity of many local group shows. I'm sending a HUGE shout out to the Cultural Center for hosting this show; and to my girls at HGQC, for inspiring me with new ways to communicate.

Now, I'ma say this once more. If you're looking for new ways to communicate, there will be a panel discussion with the artists about their way of working together, on April 30th, and then––African-inspired quilting workshops on the 7th, 14th, and 21st of June; for more info, contact Monthina Williams at the center––RSVP early for these, my friends, the instructor is Ife Felix, one of the founders; these workshops don't happen often, and they fill up quickly. So be there, or you're only a square!

Sunday, February 24, 2008

Knits And News

And The Knits Just Keep On Coming

Purple_haze_tweed

(The Purple Haze Tweed; All pics enlarge)

Occasionally, I like to make my own tweed combinations. For me it's like painting, combining different yarns in order to achieve an amalgam of luminosity, texture, and color. It also uses up some of my machine knitting yarn stash––that I have pounds of.

The sweater Lola's wearing, is made up of one end of 2/32 Linea PIU mohair (the haze) and the remainder: 2 ends of 2/18  wool/silk, 1 end of 2/24 wool/alpaca and 1 end of 2/18 merino, from my all time favorite supplier,   JaggerSpun! Here's a huge shout out to Chuck! The tweed effect, was made using the amazing accessory shown.

Dharuma_home_twister The Daruma Yarn Twister, has been around since the eighties (in my memory). I don't t know when the company ceased to make this gadget, but it was a damn shame, that they did. The twister allows for the the threads or yarns to wrap around each other evenly; you don't get "runs" of one color or another, as when you either knit or crochet, slipping the strands through your fingers. And the twist doesn't bias when worked. Valerie, I'll have the full instructions for assembly and use under the Project Working Notes in the sidebar tomorrow.

I've put up the first part of the blocking tutorial in the sidebar  for Twist, speaking on the why and what of blocking; The how is next. Stay tuned.

Big Up Time

My sistahfriend Trina Michelle Robinson, knits together phenomenal occurrences throughout the African Diaspora and presents them on her blog The Passage Project. It's my go to for an aggregation of awareness and consciousness lifting news and events; check it out. It'll become yours.

It Hasn't Unraveled Me

Yes, I'm finally on Ravelry! Now I can see what all the fun is about. I very excited to be a part of this sub-universe, and maybe that's what's motivating me towards completion. I can't wait until I'm finished with the spring publishing cycle at work, and I get some time off; then I'll time to revel!

Thursday, July 12, 2007

UFO Sightings––The End Is Near

Gee, Is This All That's Left To Do?

Loughlins_jacket_2

The best thing about re-visiting your UFOs––there isn't much left to finish; it's great, if you're an eleventh hour knitter, like me. All pics enlarge).

This hooded cardi for Mr. K's nephew Loughlin's first birthday this September, was next, after my shell. The pattern is from a Sidar kid's book I bought when Mr. K and I were visiting his family in Sydney, Australia this past January. The yarn is my current favorite, Heirloom's Heatherwood, in #545 (Cream Spot). Of course, in American knitter style, I bought yarn, without even thinking about any corresponding book of patterns for it. By contrast, the majority of the Aussie knitters I met, were very diligent about getting the pattern, then finding the corresponding yarn, needles, and notions. It may not seem particularly creative, but they are very skilled, good instruction readers, and enjoy not worrying about the desired outcome. Hey, nothing wrong with that.

I, on the other hand, am worried. I knitted a smaller size, to accommodate the larger gauge achieved from the yarn I'd bought.  As I don't understand the proportions of children's clothes––is a one year-old's head that big?––I figured Sidar can take the blame for anything that goes wrong (how 'bout that? I'm knitting a smaller size of the pattern, with larger yarn, and I'm already blaming the pattern company for the outcome). But…

Cheaters Do Win Occasionally

Jacket_with_spacer(The SimFlex sewing gauge)

This tool is worth every penny (about $14US). How many of y'all have UFOs, simply because you're flummoxed by buttonhole instructions, or placement? Just pin out your button side band to its proper length, then stretch out the spacer according to the number of buttonholes you need, and mark their places. Now, you can figure out how to knit the buttonhole band, by simply counting the stitches between the markers. Don't worry if the number of stitches between holes isn't exactly the same; trust the accurate measurements on your gauge; it's never let me down!

Buttons––Miniature Works Of Art

Buttons_buttons_sydney(Buttons, Buttons, in Sydney, NSW)

The fun part for me, will be running off to my favorite button shop in New York City––Tender Buttons, 143 East 62nd St., NYC; 212-758-7004; in Chicago, 946 N. Rush Street, 312-337-7033; Cash only. Robin and Clotilde are both knitters, and are wonderful; tell them I said hello. While in Oz (Sydney's nickname), I found Buttons Buttons; 25 Nurses Walk, The Rocks; Sydney, NSW; (02) 9252 0833 (Carson, have you been?). This button shop is absolutely recherche´! Located in a little tree lined street, it's minimalist interior allows for quiet wonder. The owner (who was away at the time), travels globally to find buttons. Prices vary. Here are some of my favorites.

Aussie_buttons_1 

Portrait_buttonsI'm loving the Salvador Dali buttons.

And last, some of the jewels!

Jeweled_buttons

Heirloom yarns can be ordered on-line from Tapestry Craft, (a big shout out to my girl Kris, the manager), for the frugally fabulous price of $ 5.64 USD. It's  a totally machine washable wool (cold water), and takes four balls for a 12 month size hooded cardi. The swatch itself, with corresponding info, is up in SwatchOut.

Wednesday, March 21, 2007

New Additions To SwatchOut

Bernat_lana(Pictured, is Bernat's "Lana," a 100% wool, in Marine. The stitch pattern is called Wheat Ears. The needles used were size 7. All pics enlarge).

First, An Addendum

The Tracey Ross shop no longer has the clogs I posted about because, I bought the last pair––sorry. They are Täos tabitha clogs, $65.00US, and are available at the following retail outlets: in North and South Carolina, at Lebo's. In Wisconsin, at Wilkins and Olander. In the San Francisco bay area, at Footwear Etc. All, have on-line ordering.

Library Acquisitions

I have finally been to add new fabrics to the swatch library. For those of you who are new to knitting and/or to this blog, here is some background info.

SwatchOut was started to answer the question of what to do with the numerous swatches I had accumulated, that no, wasn't gonna become an afghan, or a bedspread. It is also my response, to folk's  disdain for the most important step in knitting and crochet. I figured if I put up swatches with their relevant information, in the form of a reference library, it may inspire y'all to try––as in swatch––a particular yarn, or decide whether to buy it.  

Fabrics are categorized by fiber, with a brief introduction to it's classification and use. Moreover, they are cross-referenced, enabling you to look up blends.

Now, this library should not encourage laziness. The final gauge I obtained, is not a guarantee. There are no guarantees in life; this is only to give you a boost.

Cascade_cotton_woolHere Are A Few of The Latest Boosters

I am currently knitting an collared, halter-style tank for the summer. I want a 'hint' of pattern, hence the purl dots. Cascade "Sierra," an 80% cotton, 20% wool mix, is a good year round yarn, especially for those experiencing menopausal "power surges." It's absorbent, while keeping you cool. The brand is discontinued, but Brown Sheep's Cotton Fleece is the original. I used a size 5 needle.

Catalina_bulky_alpacaCatalina's Alpaca Bulky is so soft, that rubbing it for a while, will put you to sleep. The big brother to their baby alpaca, this is also value for money, because of the good yardage. Needle size 8. The pattern is from The Harmony Guides: 250 Creative Knitting Stitches, vol. 4.

Beaumont_kitty I picked up this wool blend at Rubi + Lana, in Sydney, Australia. Turns out, this is Beaumont "Kitty," an American novelty. As of post time, their website (www.geoyarns.com) was not to be found. You may have to call the shop in Sydney, who will be happy to ship this gorgeous, inexpensive yarn to you. Needle size 11 (it's more lush than the photo shows).

These swatches and more, will be posted by Friday, but do take advantage of perusing the numerous swatches that are up already. If you have inquiries about any of them, feel free to email me. Ancestors know, I knitted all of them. In fact, swatching still remains my favorite pastime. Don't look at me in disdain.

Wednesday, March 07, 2007

Some Things To Make You Smile

In A Rare Moment of Altruism…

Delanos_scarf_1I gave this scarf to my friend, the unabashedly salubrious Delano Greenridge, of Delano Greenridge Editions. It was a joy to knit (pics enlarge).

I may have ignored my blog, in the busy-ness of it all, but I haven't ignored my fingers. Here's a reason why…

It's The Yarn!

In the 39 years since Manos Del Uruguay brought their colorful yarns to our shores, and economic opportunity to rural women, a number of cooperatives have sprung up with their own iterations of attractive,  space-dyed wool. The latest to hit the scene, The Sheep Shop Yarn Company, produces Sheep 2 Yarn, the fine wool of this scarf.  

At 11" wide by 76" long, it took one week to knit, on size 11 needles. The pattern is Mistake Stitch Rib. I'm amazed that it only took a week, considering how many times I stopped, just to feel the lofty, tactile fabric. I tell ya', the sensual pleasure my hands received from this yarn, was a standout, compared to other brands of this type (yes, even Malabrigo). It's great for beginners; since it's plied, if you have to frog a coupla' times, the yarn doesn't fray. And the whopping 90 yards, meant it only took four skeins––such joy, for under $65USD (Delano is tall. Most of you will only need three skeins).

Bring a Smile To Your Hands

Swallow_needles The first time I experienced these needles, was  years ago, when Mr. K presented them as a gift, upon returning from his native Sydney. It was then, I knew he was "a keeper." So, when I was  there two months ago, I made sure to stock up on these for myself, and as souvenirs for friends (holla at me Chante´).

Manufactured by the cheekily punned Swallow Needle Mfg. Co., they are made of casein, a derivative of cow's milk. Remarkably flexible, they become warm in your hands. The tips are somewhat blunt, so they don't split plied yarns.  I'm seriously considering replacing my bamboo straights for these, from size 9 downward. I love the warmth they generate, and when I knit professionally, meaning, having to finish a garment on a deadline within days, my hands don't tire as quickly. The prices for these fine needles will have you smiling too.

In the US, go to Worldknit. The Ivore´ (pictured forth and sixth from right), can be ordered from Tapestry Craft.

Sunday, September 10, 2006

Musing About Mistakes–A Conversation With Lisa Kartus

"A correct answer is like an affectionate kiss." Johann Wolfgang von Goethe 1749 - 1832

Does This Image Make You Feel Uncomfortable?

Knit_fix_cable_mistake_1

Yesterday, I had a conversation with Lisa Kartus, Lisathe author of Knit Fix (see previous post for the book review). We talked about problem solving, knitters attitudes towards their errors, empowerment through correction, and my own personal bugaboo. Hey! Just because I didn't have a mistake to present for fixing, doesn't mean I'm immune––there's always one lurking around the corner. Oops!

Lisa, tell me about your inspiration for writing this book. Did it arise from your experiences as a sweater doctor and teacher? Did your own frustration with obtaining answers come into play?
This is the book I wanted and needed, first earlier in my knitting career, then as a teacher. Since I was a full-time journalist when I took up knitting again as an adult, I was pretty good at asking questions. But I do have this tendency to knit in the wee small hours of the morning, so problem-solving became part of my knitting.  Later on, my knitting students would ask for a book that they could take home to remind them what I'd shown them. Now they have one.

What did you do when your cousin was not around?
The simple fact that she was reachable allowed me to take risks with my knitting, to try to figure out stuff for myself.  I rarely surprised Shirley with what I'd invented, but every time I invented my own fix, she was pleased.  Nothing like approval.

Indeed! My own problem solving abilities were nurtured by parents whose mantra a lot of the time was, 'figure it out.'  This played out in my knitting by painstakingly unraveling, following the path of the loops made, until I was able to figure out what happened, and correct it. I quickly learned to knit slowly and deliberately, using every row counter and stitch marker available, in order to minimize the margin for error. Boy, was it a headache though, sometimes.

Not_enough_stitchesSpeaking of headaches, when knitters come to you for help, what is the general state of anxiety, or exasperation––if there is one?
The knitters who are going to turn into good or great knitters come in looking for a solution to the mystery on their needles. They want to do the fix themselves -- I'll talk them through it. We all get exasperated sometimes, but it doesn't pay off.

And how do you respond to their distress?
A few years ago one of my students was making a top out of that slippery railroad yarn, and managed to drop a few stitches. If you ever worked with that stuff, you know that one dropped stitch immediately led to an avalanche of dropped stitches. She was in a panic. "We'll fix it," I told her. "I'll tell you when to panic.  And it's not now." We fixed it, sitting on the carpeted floor (carpet holds knitting stitches like Velcro).

And what is their response to your advice? Especially if it is of the extreme fix type?
Sometimes we practice deep breathing.

Tee hee––sorry. : )
But once you've fixed something successfully, you have such a sense of accomplishment. The more extreme the fix, the bigger the rush. However, it sure helps to know what went wrong and how to avoid it next time––that's why there's the "Test-driving" section in Knit Fix.

Oh my goodness––carpet! I didn't know that. I'm working on a lace evening wrap right now, and the yarn has sections of rayon in it. Unraveling a mistake makes me feel like I'm de-activating a bomb. Thanks so much for that!

So sorry for the interruption. I get happy when I find out something new. Anyway, do you feel that a number of the fiasco's you encounter, are the result of a poor foundation in the basics?
Most new knitters don't know how to read their stitches, which I regard as a basic. But that's easily remedied, since there are really only two knit stitches; everything else is a variation on those two. The biggest lack I see has to do with holding tension.

Wow. Tension was a big issue I had to deal with when I was a volunteer at the Harlem Knitting Circle.
There's a reason why I refer to tension in my book as the "too-often-unexplained mystery of knitting."  In my view, tension should be taught either with or immediately following the knit stitch. Think how much easier it is to pick up that new stitch through the old one when you're holding tension.

You know, as a result of the "knitting boom", I had to help a lot of the knitters unlearn bad habits. I also had to do a lot of damage control. Many shops here were giving rather hasty lessons, to get their potential customers started. Beginners bought yarn, needles, and learned the Garter stitch.

One young lady who was stuck, thought that doing Garter stitch WAS knitting! She never learned Stockinette, because the shop didn't want to discourage her, with the perceived difficulty of learning how to purl.
Do you know, I can actually think of two students who I had to surprise into even trying the purl stitch.  There's a comfort level to garter stitch––repeating the same hand motions over and again. It's almost hypnotic. For some people, that's what knitting is and what they want from it.
   
Remember, too, that so much of knitting involves muscle memory. It's hard to unlearn bad habits that your hands are doing apparently on their own. However––and this is a big however––good shops have good teachers. And good teachers get their students to push themselves to the next level. There's always something new to try in knitting.

Your book opens with a tone of forgiveness and comfort. What have you observed about the attitude of knitters you've encountered, towards their mistakes?
Sometimes they feel silly to have made a mistake. Or they're angry at themselves for messing up.  Some students regard mistakes as someone else's fault. 

Yeah, I've heard that too. I always wonder who.
But once they learn that to err is human and, best yet, knitting errors are fixable, it tends to change those attitudes.  At least towards their knitting.

You tell the reader that there are mistakes they are going to fix, again and again. In our "one-shot-deal, perfection oriented, winner-take-all society, this must be quite a message. I mean, a lot of folks knit because they feel it is something that they can have control over.
Knitting is a process. Every process has its own errors. Take control of the errors and you take control of the process. In your own knitting, Sahara, how often do you unknit? Stop to pick up a stitch that you just dropped?

Tee hee, with this darn wrap, it seems like all the time.
That's part of knitting for all of us. Especially since 9/11, knitting has become a comfort zone for more and more of us, a break not only from the winner-take-all attitude but also from the sense of lost control.

While volunteering, I observed a lot of the women's attitude toward their mistakes and their knitting in general, had a direct correlation with their self-esteem. The higher the self-esteem, the more willing they were to do what was necessary to mend the project. A mistake suddenly didn't become a metaphor for everything else that was wrong in their lives.

I also found a difference between the knitters who were willing to forgive, move on, and deal with the solution––and those who would consistently just settle, even when shown better way to do something. How did you help knitters like this, if you came across them?
But are they just settling? Or have they figured out where knitting fits in their life, and are enjoying it? That's what I want to know.

Hmmm, I didn't think of that. Honest contentment.
That's why the book's chapter on "Your Knitting Philosophy" is the first chapter. However, it is true that our attitude towards life is reflected in our knitting. I have seen knitters who found that by taking control of their knitting they were taking control of a part of their life, and that control seeped into other parts.

The best for me, was to see women gain confidence through the ability to correct their mistakes. As such, their projects became more challenging, enabling them to gain skills, and have something beautiful to be proud of, in the end. This same blossoming of confidence brought them out, too. Shyness, self-doubt, reserve––would start to diminish.

Yes, yes, yes, yes!

By the way Lisa, I gotta say––your text reads as if you're sitting next to me. I notice however, that although you deal with lace charts, you don't have solutions for lace mistakes or mention a "life line." Is lace a particularly difficult technique to fix, in place?
Every book has space considerations. Check out my website for a lace mistake fix, with more laces fixes to come. I'd say to fix lace, you must know what you're looking at on the needle. You must be able to trace the pattern down from the stitches on the needle. If there's anything that makes it difficult to fix, it's because of shaping, which changes the balance of increases and decreases.

Is it easier then, to just unravel back to the correct row?
If you catch the problem in time, it's best to unknit. When it comes to lace knitting, count your stitches. Make sure that the yarn-overs are where they're supposed to be as well as the compensating decreases. If you get off count and don't catch it for inches and inches, then yes (sigh) it's time to unravel.

My personal bugaboo was Cables Crossed Incorrectly. Cables_crossed_incorrectlyThis photograph produced an instant tightening in my neck, at the memory of a sweater I almost finished from a wonderful mohair; it is long disintegrated, in the Staten Island Landfill. There were two mis-crossed cables in the front. The solution I found, was a complicated process, marked by cutting and unraveling. It scared the daylights out of me. Your fix, is sooo easy. Where did it come from? For me, that alone was worth the book. I think everyone who buys Knit Fix, will find the one mistake that's worth the book.

You're very kind. The cable fix came about one afternoon when a lovely student of mine brought in the back of a sweater knit in fine-gauge yarn. This sweater had a cabled ribbing that moved diagonally, and a mistake in one of those cables. We sat there for an hour or so, and I dreamed up the fix for her. Neither of us is ever going to be able to bring about world peace, but that afternoon we managed to solve a problem and enjoy the process and create our own little zone of peace.

Knitting fixes are like that, aren't they? So gratifying. Finally, are you ready for the Knit Out, in New York next Sunday?
It sounds wonderful.

I definitely look forward to meeting you on Saturday, at Knitty City.
Ditto. Are you coming to the workshop?

Yes. It'll be cool to cover to it, and give knitters the reassurance that––help is on the way!
Lisa, thanks so much!

Wednesday, August 30, 2006

Life Is Moving Faster Than My Fingers

Ist2_695326_big_radar_screen

It's been a minute, but I'm back on the radar.

People! The pace at work is brisk, with this crazy production schedule. We're literally putting out a magazine every week and a half, which is cramping what I enjoy about the work itself–– speaking to fabulous people all over the world about what they're doing now, and next. But the worst is, I can't engage in my favorite pastime––checking out all of you fabulous folks on my sidebar. I miss y'all.

But, There's No Time Like The Present

Check it out. This in from Xenobia B.–– Hallelujah! Harlem Art Fair, is taking place now, until September 30th (click on icon of Hallelujah). Thank you, Savonna!…

'Git Crackin'!

New York knitters, the Knit Out & Crochet is early this year––September 17th. Why?
I'm going to ask Mary Colucci, executive director of the Craft Yarn Council of America, and get back to y'all. As you remember, last year it was in October. September can be a  funny month, weather-wise. Sometimes it rains a lot. Or, the heat suddenly returns. In any event, finish up those UFOs, so you can show out! We, at Knitty City will be there to represent, and we're taking the hilariously irreverent  Stephanie McPhee, the yarn harlot herself, back with us to hang out at the store and autograph copies of her head-nodding, jaw-hurting-with-laughter books, from 6 to 8 p.m. Be there, or be square!

Here She Is!

NolaAfter interviewing a number of lackluster  candidates, I picked Miss Nola to be my new fit assistant. It was time. When making simple knits, you can get away with a swatch and a bunch of math calculations. However, at a certain point I needed to check the fit and proportions in 3-D.

So this past Tuesday on my lunch hour, I walked down to
Panda International Trading Co. and plunked down $350US. And I gotta say––when she was delivered to me at work, the looks on my co-workers faces as I wheeled her through the aisle was, as the commercial goes, priceless.

$350US was not bad; among the companies I researched, that's the student price. Average prices for a half form, start at $475US and up. A full form (with legs), is about $700US and up. And no, they do not go on sale, and the days of buying a used one, are over. It's an investment.

There is no standard set of measurements, even between mannequin producers. Bring a tape measure with you, and buy a form according to the measurements you need to work with. The number '12' on Nola means nothing. She is 39-29-39.

Nola's First Fitting Session

Knitty_city_shellFinally! My first pattern for Knitty City, the Herringbone Lace Shell, in Classic Elite's "Provance". I have not finished the  neck and armholes yet, as I want to use the Reverse Crochet st. (Crab st.), much to the complaints of some knitters. Will y'all get over it? The crochet hook is your friend.
It's just a different hand movement, that's all. You can do it.

Knitty_city_shell_sideAs far as fit, I wanted a shell that would be flattering, skimming over the bust and tummy. The front is 20" across and the back is 19.5".

(1.) On the bottom, you can see how the front seems slightly longer, and slants to the back, pulled  by the rib. When worn, balance will be achieved, as the bust will take up the front, straightening the side seams. (2.) The front armhole, which I am going to finish in Reverse crochet.

Knitty_city_shell_armholeThe back armhole treatment is from the Vogue Knitting Quick Reference (see sidebar). The ribbing and armhole curve are made simultaneously by increasing and decreasing. This produces a ribbed armhole that adheres nicely to the body curve. My rib is twisted, matching the bottom

The high, twisted rib keeps the back narrow; the body blouses out, covering back fullness. Knitty_city_shell_back

Today, I will be shooting the cover photo of this shell pattern on
the indefatigable Naomi Dagen Bloom, in Bryant Park during my lunch hour.

Gosh, maybe one day I'll actually get to eat.

Saturday, August 19, 2006

When Creativity Calls…

You Must Answer!

Sprayed_cable(This was my first feeble attempt to use an airbrush again, after a coupla' years. While this cable sample looks like it suffered smoke damage in a fire, my buried skills are improving rapidly).

Whoooeee!

It has been a rough nine days since the Sistahfriends bang-up knitticue. This magazine I work for has gotten every damn penny of my salary outta me, as we closed the Men's Fall Fashion issue, and started the closing Travel issue simultaneously (Fella's have I got the look book for you!).

So, honestly? By the time I got home, the last thing I wanted to do was sit in front of another desk, at another computer. Indeed, my knitting time became circumscribed to my commute to and from work. Fingers don't fail me now.

But…

The spirits governing my creative passions commenced to upset my emotional equilibrium, until I gave them complete control of my body, so they could expel a heap of inspiration and a desire to experiment, that had been germinating in me for a while. The right side of my brain, was positively swollen with sensory information, extrapolated from the constant flow of artistic media and technique around me, and from life in general.

Suddenly, I Became The Instrument

I started dreaming at night about air-brushing art effects into my sweaters (this type of dreaming experience is not unusual for me. When I can no longer surpress my desire to do something, I do it in my dreams. I also solve a lot of problems, too).

The week before last, the spirits told me to go buy fabric paint. I suddenly got up from my desk, at lunchtime, took the subway two stops to 28th St., and walked up the block to Design Partners; 343 7th Ave. 646-674-0954. Jacquard Paints have always been my favorite for yarn, as it can be distilled to a very fluid consistency. It seeps into the fiber, hence the knitted piece doesn't have that "surface coat" feel. (The photo shown, is Karabella's Aurora Bulky, with the natural shadows intensified by airbrushing, in order to give more depth to the cables. All pics enlarge).

Airbrush_karabella2Some individuals engage in a craft, through consumerism––" I buy, therefore I do."

I gotta do, or the spirits of creativity will mess with my head. If I'm having a frustrating day at work, they'll say things like "go home and paint, Sahara. No one will really miss you." They messed with my head when I stopped at my de facto office and knitting lounge, Native, after work, for drinks. The spirits whispered, "'now you know you would be happier at home experimenting with your paints.'"

By the end of the week I was so restless, that when my co-workers inquired about my weekend, expecting the usual litany of dance parties, birthdays, and openings, I shocked them by responding that I was mentally going out of town. 

Here are more mementos from my trip

Airbrush_karabella
After my first attempts at spraying, I washed the swatches (all were wool). They came out just as soft as ever, and the paint didn't fade. This reinforcement excited me even more!

With a little more practice, I steadied the air flow from the brush, and my hand. Combined with a little mixing of paint, I figured out my method of achievement. In my second effort, I sprayed under the twists and cabels, then fanned out to heightened the shadow, giving the illusion of a bold relief to the cable pattern.Diamond_twist_airbrush

I finally changed the tip of my airbrush––an old School Paasche––to produce a fine line, and now, I'm gonna rock out!

I will blend the next set of shadows closer to the color of the fiber itself for a more realistic (?) look.

They Ain't Finished With Me Yet

One the straight knitting side, I've been feigning for a baseball jacket. I would like to see it as an alternative for sweaters and ponchos. It's a better proportion, to go with the new skinny leg jeans. I addtionally considered, my knitting brothers out there might want to make some other kind of outerwear for a change, rather than a sweater. The pattern's coming soon, as I just received the call from Knitty City that my yarn, Brown Sheep Burly Spun is in. The pocket and bottom ribbing is Lamb's Pride Bulky. Tanbar_jacket_detail

I believe you should always include any important details––pockets, bands, trim, etc.––into your swatch, as I show here. And after my experience with that Reynold's toddler coat pattern featuring the lazy daisy of my previous post, I believe it more than ever. By the way, this pocket feels great when you stick your hand in it. Nice and cozy. The needles used were 10.5 and 15's, and the stitch is Tanbark, From Barbara G. Walker, Book 3.

The final blossoming belch, produced this:
Multneedle_cableI've been longing to create effects using multiple needles. This cable, of Rowan Yorkshire Tweed Aran was knitted in separate sections after eight rows, the sections twisted around each other after 24 rows, and placed back on straight needles, all stitches knitted as one piece for eight more rows. I used four double pointed needles, and a pair of straight needles, both size 8. And no, the knitting didn't slip off the double points. I didn't even have to put stitch holders on the ends.

Ahhhhh. The voices of the spirits have calmed down a bit, now that I've released some energy. I rewarded myself, by riding my mountain bikeMy_mountain_bike for the first time since my hip replacement (20 months). It was only a 7 mile ride, but I'll get stronger.

I'ma check out now, and hit the hay, as they say. 
More to come.

Sunday, July 30, 2006

It's The Content, Stupid!

The people have spoken!

Please forgive my misguided attempt to make this blog look summery. Instead, it  turned out like a bad psychedelic. It threw a lot of my buddies, who reminded me that it wasn't the visuals that they were paying attention to, but the contents. Thanks.

Here is something to do, so you do not become too content yourself.

Bust Out, On Your Lunch Hour

On Wednesday, August 2nd, feminist for the millenium, Debbie Stoller of Bust Magazine demonstrates a few techniques from her books Stitch ’n Bitch: The Knitter’s Handbook and
Stitch ’n Bitch Crochet: The Happy Hooker.
This event takes place at 12:30 pm––so arrange for an early lunch hour––at The Bryant Park Reading Room on the 42nd Street side between 5th and 6th Ave across the street from Coliseum Books.  Hosted by Adina Klein, Editor in Chief at Knit 1 Magazine. Please note:  In the case of rain the events will be moved to the Coliseum Books Café.

Bazic_rib_2Folks, before I quit for tonight––the heat in this studio is getting to me––here's a bit of what I've been doing.

I've been working on a slew of swatches to put up in the library this week. Here's one. In this 2 x 2 rib, made from Classic Elite Yarns, Bazic, I decided to emboss a diamond design on the rib, by knitting wide popcorns: k2 turn, p2 turn, k next 2 sts tog with corresponding sts of first row of popcorn. For a wide bobble (really nice on a bulky rib), do the k2, turn, p2 turn, twice. My advice: place st markers on each st of the 1st row of popcorn stitches, so you know where to pick the stitches up to complete.

And guess what? I FINISHED my herringbone lace shell! The pics will be forthcoming, as I have a newer version of my old Canon® digital. Finally! Now, I can get on with Fall!

Sunday, July 23, 2006

You Can't Get There, From Here-Row 1

A Cautionary Tale, And The Lessons Learned

Girls_aline_jacket_1This is the first of a 3 part series, expressing my thoughts, and  suggestions as a designer, on knitting patterns and their effect on the overall knitting experience. In other words, it's to help y'all novices out there, not give up, quite yet.

"This Jacket Looks Okay…"

One of my duties as an associate of the shop is knitting models, to encourage the purchase of the patterns and yarn. This exhorts me to make items, normally ouside of my sphere. Therefore, I was delighted at the opportunity to knit this little jacket. It's from Reynolds Yarns, made with Cabana, a nice, bulky cotton/acrylic.

"Wow, That's Soooo Cute! I Just Have To Make It!"––Getting Zapped

I love to play pretend. That said, I transformed myself into a fairly confident beginner, desiring to learn a new skill, and knit something really cute for my friend's toddler. I loved the daisy-style button, and the petals were shaped on double-pointed needles––something new. Daisy_detailIt was also more appealing, compared to the picture of the same jacket closed, with a purchased button. After all, the point was to show off my new skill.

A quick glance of the instructions yielded no apprehension, and the yarn itself was fairly inexpensive, at $8.50US per ball. I took five balls as suggested for the 2 - 4 year old size, swatched a 4" x 4" piece––'cause that's what y'all do––and was on my way––to disappointment.

I was so overpowered by the cuteness factor, (including the feel of the yarn)––that the attention I should have paid to the pattern, along with my common sense––was abbreviated. This was the basis for my big letdown when this jacket was finished. 

The First Bugaboo

Try your best, to avoid patterns that do not have a picture of a person wearing it. You see how pretty, the daisy button looks? That's because the jacket was photographed flat. Once I finished and held it up––the flower flopped over, looking wilted and taking the focalpoint of cuteness with it. What was I thinking? Cotton's not stiff. So I learned a new skill, but the results dampened my accomplishment. And, it's all about the result, isn't it?

Errata And Typos

For years I worked as a Technical Designer in the Garment Restrict. I was responsible for the measurement, fit and instructions––called tech packs––necessary to produce thousands of sweaters,  manufactured overseas, from prototypes. No one's perfect, but the room for error was extremely marginal. Considering the consequences, it was figuratively, like working with a gun to your head.  As a survival skill you become consistently accurate, observant and questioning. Therefore, I have little sympathy for patterns with mistakes and typos in them. How does this happen? Where are the proofreaders?

The mistake in this pattern occurs at the neckline. The instructions for the collar asks you to pick up and work in Seed St, increasing 12 (11, 13) sts. evenly around on first rnd - 53 (58, 62) sts. Now, this booboo may seem minimal, but it's not cool. Novice knitters have come to me for help, totally stalled at a blooper like this. If it's their first garment, that implicit, but fragile trust, imbued upon a knitting pattern can be shattered. They retreat to the boring, but safe world of scarves. Or worse, become prey to the opinions of misguided knitters (yeah, I said it), stating that "'honey, a pattern is just a starting point for you to do your own thing.'" Uh, huh. That's the next post.

Was It Worth It, In The End?

A good designer, should be concerned with price point value. Then, you do not incorporate superfluous elements like flopping daisy buttons, into your piece. Why? For starters, the petals, took a fraction of the ball to complete; the knotted pink button itself, was made from I swear, about three feet of yarn. The final cost of this jacket was close to $50US. I am now left with a disappointing centerpiece, and two balls of yarn that I have no real need for. And no, you should not have to justify this by telling yourself you're going to make matching booties. You're not. This jacket without the daisy would have cost about $30US, plus a button. What would you rather have––two balls you can't return, or a little less than, $20US in your pocket?

The moral of the story is this: since you cannot return the finished article to the yarn shop if it doesn't work (unlike store bought clothing), don't get zapped by the superficial. Take your time to read––not glance at––the instructions. Whatever you don't understand, ask about. Shop personnel don't always know if the instructions have errors; it takes time, for us to peruse all of the patterns and books that come in. Next, take out your calculator, and add up everything. Maybe you can substitute small design devices with yarn or notions you already have, saving money.  Finally, and most important––knit any outside pieces first, using the swatch yarn!

If I had done that with the daisy, I'd have seen the future, returned those two balls and bought a beautiful button. The child would've been just as happy; and so would I.

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